Aug 062016
 

It’s always good to get home and fire up the stereo after being off on a long week of work travel. The first thing I did after getting home from a long day of flying was to plug in my vintage McIntosh vacuum tube electronics and vintage Altec A5 Voice of the Theatre loudspeakers based system to let it warm up for a while, pour a glass of nice French wine, and then listen to The Girl From Ipanema from the Getz/Gilberto LP, in honor of  the Rio Olympics! Ah, the good life!

Getz/Gilberto

Getz/Gilberto

Please keep all your comments coming about your experiences with the speaker cables, interconnects, hookup wire, pushback wire, etc., that use tinned-copper conductors to juice up the music.

I suspect we are just beginning to scratch the surface of applications for the tinned-copper conductors ‘vintage tone’ style of wire.

It’s really valuable feedback to hear about what you are hearing/feeling based on your associated equipment and personal tastes, and I think it will be a valuable resource for like-minded enthusiasts for future reference.

With the huge wave of popularity I’m seeing for wire containing tinned-copper conductors, with its ‘vintage tone’ tonal balance, I’d say we’re seeing something rather remarkable happen, a sort of renaissance for the ‘vintage tone’ style of wire, with its rather remarkable ability to emphasize the musicality & emotional connection to the music, while still sounding good sonically, with the added bonus of being relatively inexpensive. That’s a mighty fine combination if you ask me.

I thought it would be useful to recap what I’ve learned over the last year or so about tinned-copper ‘vintage tone’ wire, and summarize your findings and recommendations as well (let me know if I’ve missed anything).

First of all, I’d like to acknowledge and thank Yazaki-san from the SPEC Corporation for introducing us all to the charms of this tinned-copper ‘vintage tone’ style of wire in the form of vintage-style Belden 8402 microphone cable for use as interconnects, vintage Western Electric WE16GA for use as speaker cables, and vintage Western Electric WE24GA for use as headshell wires. Thank you, Yazaki-san!

Belden 8402 microphone cable for interconnects.

Belden 8402 microphone cable for interconnects.

Western Electric WE16GA wire for speaker cables.

Western Electric WE16GA wire for speaker cables.

Vintage Western Electric WE24GA wire as headshell leads.

Vintage Western Electric WE24GA wire as headshell leads.

When I first tried the Belden 8402 microphone cable as interconnects, and the vintage Western Electric WE16GA as speaker cables, Yazaki-san had warned me to be patient, as tinned-copper wire tends to sound a little ‘rough’ and brash, and a little flat dimensionally, during its initial settling-in period, before it comes on song musically & sonically.

I have found that initial ‘roughness’ to be almost universally true with the tinned-copper conductor wire trials I have done to date, although the Duelund DCA16GA surprised me when I tried it as speaker cables, as it sounded good from the start (as speaker cables), but when I tried the DCA16GA as runs from the Hiraga-san inspired A5 crossovers to the combination of my 16-Ohm Altec 288C Alnico high-frequency compression driver and Altec 1005B ten cell high-frequency horns, I heard that same initial ‘roughness’ and settling-in period that is the norm for tinned-copper conductor wire.

So let me give you a friendly heads-up to be patient with tinned-copper conductor wire like the WE16GA (in particular), Belden 8402 microphone cable, tinned-copper pushback wire, and Duelund DCA16GA, as it tends to go through a ‘phase change’ musically & sonically after a period of time (usually around 100 hours), then slowly gets better over an extended period of time. I have found this to be a much greater magnitude of change than you normally get with wire run-in, for whatever reason.

Over time I’ve had one, maybe it was two people, tell me they disliked the ‘vintage tone’ style of wire, and I suspect it was because they didn’t give it adequate time to run-in, settle down, and get over that initial period of ‘roughness’ that seems to be common to this ‘vintage tone’ style of tinned-copper wire. But in any event, give your ‘vintage tone’ style of tinned-copper wire plenty of time to settle down so you can hear it at its best.

As an aside, I’ve also found that when you take ‘vintage tone’ tinned-copper wire out of the system, then put it back in, it takes it a while, usually a couple of days, to get back on song again. This is particularly trying for reviewers who change their systems a lot in the reviewing process, but for the rest of you it shouldn’t be an issue, and I recommend you put the wire in place and then don’t touch it unless you absolutely have to.

There’s always a chance that a listener just will not like what it’s about musically & sonically, of course, as I’m sure there are contexts where the ‘vintage tone’ style of tonal balance won’t match well with associated equipment or a given music lover’s tastes, but so far that’s been a pretty rare occurrence.

Ok, back to the story.

After listening to the Belden 8402 microphone cable and Western Electric WE16GA for a while, I also noticed that my vintage McIntosh vacuum tube components were all wired internally with vintage Western Electric wire, so I began to wonder if there was a distinctive tonal voicing that was more-or-less typical of tinned-copper conductors, much in the same way that copper, silver, and gold wire have distinctive tonal signatures.

As I began to do a little research on the topic, I found out that the guitar guys had come to the same conclusion, quite a while ago, and that they used the term ‘vintage tone’ to describe the vintage tonal balance of tinned-copper conductors that were used in vintage electric guitars like the Gibson L5 or Les Paul, and the Fender Stratocaster, as well as in those vintage vacuum tube guitar amplifiers that gave those guitars their distinctive voices.

John La Chapelle (left) & Larry Coryell (right). Photo by Dr. Kannan Krishnaswami.

John LaChapelle (left) & Larry Coryell (right). Photo by Dr. Kannan Krishnaswami.

Eric Clapton playing Blackie in 1978. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons.

Eric Clapton playing Blackie in 1978. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia Commons.

I thought the guitar guys had some keen insight into this, so I appropriated their term ‘vintage tone’ to describe the tonal balance of tinned-copper wires for audio use as well.

The guitars guys are still quite a bit ahead of us in audio in recognizing the importance of a ‘vintage tone’ tonal balance in conveying musicality and emotive qualities in music, and recognizing how different components, like ‘vintage tone’ capacitors (among other things), influence musical performance, like the vintage Bumblebee caps, the new production Jupiter ‘Red Astron’ tinfoil caps (I’m loving them in my MX110Z!), Alnico magnets like my Altec A5’s & A7’s have, and the like. You can read more of my musings on this topic here.

I’ve already mentioned the beautiful ‘vintage tone’ balance of vintage Western Electric WE24GA used as headshell wires, and I’m very enthusiastic about the ‘vintage tone’ USB interconnect I made from tinned-copper pushback wire, and reported on here. As a follow-on comment to my ‘vintage tone’ USB interconnect, let me just say that while it has gone relatively unnoticed by most of you, it absolutely kills any other USB interconnect musically that I’ve tried to date, and it cost pennies to make. Just sayin’.

Well anyways, after trying the Western Electric WE16GA as speaker cable, I slowly replaced the wire I had used to wire my Duelund CAST crossovers for my Westminster Royal SE loudspeakers with Western Electric WE16GA, followed by replacing the internal wiring of my Westminster Royal SE loudspeakers with Western Electric WE16GA. The WE16GA provided the same excellent results in those applications as well.

I also did the same thing for my Stokowski Altec A7 Voice of the Theatre loudspeakers and SPEC RSA-M3 EX Real Sound Amplifier based system, and using Western Electric WE16GA wire as speaker cables, Belden 8402 microphone cables as interconnects, and the aforementioned tinned-copper pushback wire USB interconnect. That system sounds fantastic wired up with all ‘vintage tone’ wire.

A7 VOTTs that were custom built for Leopold Stokowski.

My A7 VOTTs that were custom built for Leopold Stokowski absolutely sing with ‘vintage tone’ style of wire as interconnects and speaker cables!

When I started my Altec A5 project I didn’t mess with success, and used the Western Electric WE16GA for speaker cables, crossover wiring, and to wire the Altec drivers. It worked great as I had hoped it would.

Duelund Coherent Audio DCA16GA wire.

Duelund Coherent Audio DCA16GA wire.

It was during this period of time that I was talking with Frederik Carøe at Duelund Coherent Audio in Denmark about my experiences with the vintage Western Electric WE16GA tinned-copper wire, and was lamenting the fact the genuine vintage Western Electric WE16GA was all but extinct.

Fortunately for all of us, Frederik became intrigued with the idea of re-introducing a ‘vintage tone’ style of wire using tinned-copper conductors, and modeled it after the now legendary (and extinct) Western Electric WE16GA, utilizing the same number and size of tinned-copper conductors, but going the vintage Western Electric one better by using an oil impregnated and baked cotton dielectric, instead of the Western Electric’s fabric & plastic dielectric. Frederik worked really hard to keep the retail price low too, about what I payed for my WE16GA, which is truly commendable.

Duelund Coherent Audio DCA16GA wire as speaker cables.

Duelund Coherent Audio DCA16GA wire as speaker cables.

The DCA16GA on the 16 Ohm Altec 288C Alnico high-frequency compression driver.

The DCA16GA on the 16 Ohm Altec 288C Alnico high-frequency compression driver.

As you know, I’ve been very pleased with the performance of the Duelund DCA16GA on my Altec A5 Voice of the Theatre loudspeakers as speaker cables, and going from my Hiraga-san inspired crossovers to my Altec AlNiCo 288C high-frequency compression drivers.

Given the length of time it takes to get the full measure of performance from a ‘vintage tone’ tinned-copper wire, I’m being patient in letting the Duelund DCA16GA settle in, and I don’t think I’m anywhere near hearing its full potential yet. I’m also taking my time gathering listening impressions in an effort to come to grips with articulating why the tinned-conductor Duelund DCA16GA ‘vintage tone’ style of wire sounds so compellingly musical, and conveys so much of the emotive aspect of music.

As I mentioned earlier, the MSRP retail price of the Duelund DCA16GA is $12.99 USD/meter ($3.97/ft), but I understand that Parts Connexion’s standard pricing will be 15% off this or $10.99 USD/meter ($3.37/ft.), so that’s a great deal for what is essentially a custom, hand-assembled, 16 AWG tin-plated stranded copper wire made to Western Electric WE16GA standards, with an oil impregnated cotton jacket as a bonus.

I do have some bad news for you regarding the Duelund DCA16GA, so I guess I’d better break it to you now. In a market starved for a quality ‘vintage tone’ style of wire, the entire first production run of the Duelund DCA16GA wire sold out only 6 days after my first post about it. Frederik has geared up to do a second production run, and as I mentioned the first time around, be sure to get your name on Parts Connexion’s waiting list so you don’t miss out on the second production run too.

The Alternate Blues

The Alternate Blues

I’m sitting here listening to The Alternate Blues as I’m writing this update for you, and I’ve been playing it over and over, and it’s just blowing me away with how musical and ‘real’ it sounds. I think I’ve played the entire album about four times now, and lets just say the the Duelund DCA16GA is bringing out the best in it.

Ok, well I’ve got to get on with my day and the onslaught of tasks that need catching up on, so I’ve got to run.

Update for Saturday Evening: I just cut a pair of 3-meter Duelund DCA16GA speaker cables to use from my Leben CS600 integrated amplifier to my Harbeth Super HL5 loudspeakers. Just as with the 2-meter Duelund DCA16GA speaker cables I cut for my Altec A5 Voice of the Theatre loudspeakers, they sounded good right off, being warm, rich, and nicely textured, which surprised me a bit, as usually tinned-copper sounds rough before it settles in.

'Topless' Leben CS-600 integrated amplifier with KT90 tubes.

‘Topless’ Leben CS-600 integrated amplifier with KT90 tubes.

As an aside, about two weeks ago I had one of the Electro Harmonix KT90EH tubes fail that I had been using in my Leben CS600. I liked the KT90EH tubes in the Leben CS600 a lot, as they were warm, with rich timbral textures, and deeply infused tonal colors. When one of the big KT90EH tubes failed, I pulled them all out and replaced them with a quad of 6n3cEs that I had used previously in my CS600. The 6n3cEs are nice sounding tubes in the CS600, but with a leaner, brighter, and more detailed presentation.

Even with the 6n3cEs in my CS600, the addition of the Duelund DCA16GA provided an even warmer, timbrally richer, and more colorful sound, than with the quad of KT90EH tubes I was using earlier. Nice.

Harbeth and Leben owners take note!

Update for Sunday Morning: I thought I’d add a couple of photos to show you how I hooked up the Duelund DCA16GA wire as speaker cables to my Harbeth Super HL5’s binding posts.

If you look closely at the photo, you’ll see I cut the oil-soaked/baked cotton dielectric and pulled it apart just enough to match the spacing between the SHL5’s binding posts, threaded the DCA16GA wire through the low & high-frequency posts, then snugged them down. I described this studio wire tip in my post A Handy Western Electric WE16GA Tip! here.

You have to be a little careful with the casing so you don’t pull it off the end, because if you do you’ll never get it back on. I was thinking it might be a good idea to use a tiny drop of glue on the dielectric ends where it’s touching the wire to keep it in place, but I haven’t tried that yet.

By the way, I recommend that when using the Duelund DCA16GA for speaker cables you resist the temptation to terminate the wires with spade or banana connectors, as I have found (when using the WE16GA) that even the best of them seriously degraded the quality of the sonics & musicality.

Closeup of the Harbeth Super HL5 binding posts with the Duelund DCA16GA threaded through.

Closeup of the Harbeth Super HL5 binding posts with the Duelund DCA16GA wire threaded through.

Also, try to resist the temptation of using a bi-wire set. There’s a mindset in audio that says ‘more must be better’ so we bi-wire. Yazaki-san was telling me one day (I hope I’m not misquoting you, Yazaki-san), that he preferred the use of a single run of WE16GA wire as speaker cables, and thought the performance with a single wire was better performing in a ‘real sound’ way with his Altec’s than a bi-wire arrangement.

Essentially, little skinny tinned-copper 16GA wires work great with high-sensitivity horns and tube amplification. It turns out they also work great with my Stokowski Altec A7 VOTTs and solid-state SPEC amplification, and now I know that the single run of skinny wires formula also works well with my low-sensitivity Harbeth Super HL5 loudspeakers and Leben CS600 amplification.

Leben CS600 with Duelund DCA16GA.

Leben CS600 with Duelund DCA16GA.

Yazaki-san has been politely trying to nudge people in that direction of ‘less is more’ and I think he’s got a good point. Give it a try and see what you think, it’s a very cost effective way to get ‘real sound’ performance.

If you must try a bi-wire arrangement to satisfy your curiosity, please do so (I did), and you might find there are applications where you like it better. Even if you don’t, I’m sure Frederik will appreciate you purchasing extra Duelund DCA16GA wire to support the ‘vintage tone’ wire movement!

The Duelund DCA16GA wire sounds incredibly good on my Leben CS600 integrated amplifier and Harbeth Super HL5 loudspeaker system.

That’s with zero run-in time, which just goes to show that maybe the Duelund DCA16GA with its oil-soaked/baked cotton dielectric isn’t as fussy as the Western Electric WE16GA’s fabric/plastic dielectric is about that initial run-in roughness, although I’m not completely convinced about that yet. Time will tell.

Now I want to add a pair of Belden 8402 microphone cable RCA interconnects to the mix and see what happens! I just ordered a pair of 2-meter Belden 8402 microphone cable interconnects from BTPA.com, with the Switchcraft 3502AAU (Gold Plug/Nickel Handle) RCAs, and with the screen connected to the ground on both ends as per Yazaki-san’s method. With shipping the cost came to $89.60 – what an incredible bargain!

More to come.

Have fun listening and keep me posted on your experiences and impressions.

Over and out!

 Posted by at 9:42 am

  48 Responses to “Jeff checking in … Duelund DCA16GA, ‘Vintage Tone’, and other stuff! Updates.”

  1. I’m all in ordered enough from amp to speaker to driver. I got all WE now can’t wait to try this stuff out.

  2. Hi Jeff,
    I’ve had the DCA16ga in now for a bunch of days, likely about 40 hrs on the main rig, Coincident Dynamo SE Mark II, DeVore 0/96, Belden 8402 interconnect, WE10ga power cords, except Minimax DAC which have WE14ga connected, or my Thorens TD124, Wow!!! Smooth, warm, colorful, textured, beautiful tone/timbral rightness, bigger stage, deeper/wider and emotion to die for, oh so musical…I borrowed my brother’s Leben CS600’s with the 6n3ces that you have and hooked up to the Harbeth HL5s, same sonic signature you report…then I connected my Tekton M-Lore with the Coincident Dynamo SE Mark II. If someone is looking for a really terrific inexpensive system, this is it:

    Coincident Dynamo SE Mark II (mine have Shuguang EL34s, RCA Red Base 5691, same Rectifier 5u4g as you from Yazaki-San)
    Tekton M-Lore
    Minimax DAC/mhdt
    Sony SACD 9000ES or any inexpensive, yet good transport
    WE16ga or now, the DCA16ga speaker wire
    WE10ga power cords, plus WE14ga for DAC
    Belden 8402 interconnect
    DCA16ga speaker wire

    For less than $3,500 you would be hard-pressed to find a more musical system 95db/8ohm/38hz

    Thank you thank you, Jeff, every time I read your blog I discover another gem. And thank you Frank and Yazaki-San wherever you are!

    Best, Mikirob

    • Howdy Mikirob!

      Nice to hear from you! You’ve got such a nice system setup, and I’m glad to hear you’re enjoying the Duelund DCA16GA.

      I’m really pleased that Frederik decided to produce the DCA16GA, and I’m delighted there has been such a positive response to it.

      Thank you for your kind words, I truly appreciate it! 🙂

      Kind regards,

      Jeff

  3. Is the digital version of the Belsen made in the same way as the regular ics?

    • Hi Wushuliu,

      I’m not sure what you are referring to in your comment. Can you clarify?

      Best,

      Jeff

      • I mean the 8402. I thought I read it has also been used as a digital cable and I’d like to know if the same construction (shield and ground tied together, etc) applies…

        • Hi Ainsley,

          I’m not familiar with anyone using Belden 8402 in a digital application, except as RCA or balanced interconnects from a DAC. From my DAC my Belden 8402 RCA interconnects are made the way I described them. If you’re trying to do something other than that, probably the best resource for your question would be the staff at BTPA.com who do a lot of pro installations of Belden 8402.

          Best,

          Jeff

          • Huh, I thought there was a post here about some guy named Steve doing that. Maybe it was some other site. In any case, I went ahead and made a coax cable for spdif out with the 8402. Only have a little time with it so far, but I like what I hear. Seems to bring the same great qualities to digital output.

          • Keep me posted on how it sounds after you get some time on it, sounds like it’s going to be nice!

  4. Hi Jeff,

    Good report, I have ordered all 3 types of hook-up cables from parts connexion.

    Did you also try the Duelund 26awg/ 20awg hook-up cable as well?

    I am confuse about the application all 3 wires from Duelund (26awg, 20awg and 16awg)? where is the best place to use them?

    Thanks
    Alan

    • Hi Alan,

      This post is really about the rising popularity of the ‘vintage tone’ style of wire like the Duelund DCA16GA, with its tinned-copper conductors and cotton dielectric, which is very similar to (but better than) the now extinct but highly regarded & desired vintage Western Electric WE16GA wire, which has found great favor as speaker cables, internal speaker wiring, and crossover wiring, in an increasing number of loudspeaker systems, and certainly in mine.

      In my own systems I am making the transition from the other types of wire I had used for speaker cables, crossovers, and internal wiring (silver, copper, etc.), to this ‘vintage tone’ style of wire, because I believe it has superior sonic & musical presentation in the ‘real sound’ sense, and provides a greater degree of emotional connection to the music, and so I recommend the Duelund DCA16GA for those applications.

      I hope that helps.

      Best,

      Jeff

  5. Hi all

    Does anyone know the capacitance of the Dueland speaker cable, I currently run a 3ft WE 16GA to my Audio Note mono blocks and was going to investigate moving the mono blocks in my room which would require a speaker cable at around 21ft, would I be running into issues using this length?

    Lee

    • Hi Lee,

      I’m sorry, but I don’t know the capacitance of the Duelund DCA16GA. Hopefully Frederik will see your message and let us know.

      Kind regards,

      Jeff

  6. Hi Jeff,
    I built a 18″ USB cable using pushback wire. I wrapped copper foil tape around it and then heavy duty grey plumbers teflon tape.
    It bests all other USB cables I’ve tried.

    I was lucky enough to order the Duelund16GA wire before it was all gone. I now have over 140 hrs nonstop on unterminated speaker cables. As others have stated it sounds like the WE16GA (which has been transferred to my av system) but more of it.
    It is addictive to listen too, I want more!!!

    Thanks for sharing Jeff.

    Regards,
    Marvin

    • Hi Marvin,

      That’s fantastic! I’m so glad you built the pushback wire USB cable, and I hope others will follow suite, as it is a musical treat.

      I like your description of the Duelund: “… it sounds like the WE16GA, but more of it.” I have found it to be rather addictive as well, and I’m delighted you are enjoying it.

      Keep me posted on developments!

      Kind regards,

      Jeff

  7. Dear Friends,

    Sometimes it’s hard to know what to think of certain comments from visitors to the site, or how to respond to them.

    That is the case with Jeff Medwin’s comment that Robert responded to. Jeff seemed to be aware of the offensive aspects of his post, yet posted it anyway, and then Robert turned it back on him, scolding him tongue-in-cheek.

    While I encourage constructive dialog about creative audio ideas, I will not tolerate individuals posting comments where they declare themselves to be some sort of an audio deity, and then proceed to diss other audio enthusiasts’ personal tastes and approaches, as Jeff Medwin has done with Yazaki-san.

    While I am glad for Mr. Medwin that he has found an approach for his Altec’s that he is very enthusiastic about, to insist that his approach is the only valid one and that people with different goals and/or tastes are ‘behind him’ or ‘wrong’ is not acceptable content for a comment, particularly given in this case that he does not know Yazaki-san, or why Yazaki-san has chosen the approach he has with his Altec’s, and of course, he has never heard Yazaki-san’s Altec based system.

    While respectful exchange of ideas is encouraged, comments that are clearly picking fights with – or dissing – other valued contributors here at Jeff’s Place are out of bounds, so I have removed Mr. Medwin’s comment. I also removed Robert’s comment, because when left by itself, it lacked context, which could be misconstrued (and was by at least one person).

    We all have our preferences, and we all have the challenge of expressing those preferences in a way that demonstrates we have learned to ‘play well with others’.

    Just so everyone knows, and while this doesn’t necessarily apply to Mr. Medwin’s comment, anyone who posts comments that are generally abusive, or are intended to pick a fight, or show high levels of intolerance towards the spectrum of others’ ideas or tastes, or border on racism, will have their comments removed.

    Kind regards,

    Jeff

    • very good Jeff
      It was from me also a little to impulsive post sorry for that.
      but it was once again that Jeff Medwin other ideas things and people break down who not do it the way he does
      and put him self on a pedestal
      very good that you remove my post as well.

      Let us go on with our great hobby and share the good things
      on this great site!
      Best regards Robert .

      • Not to worry, Robert, more than one person had the same reaction that you did to Jeff Medwin’s message, including me.

        I considered your message to be a tongue-in-cheek response serving back up to JM what he was dishing out, and my response related to Jeff’s message was not at all intended to chastise you.

        I took down both posts (and actually another post that I didn’t allow to go live) because I didn’t want it to continue to escalate.

        Thanks for you’re message, and it’s always a pleasure to hear from you, Robert.

        Kind regards,

        Jeff

  8. Hello Jeff,

    Great comments!

    Kind regards,
    Mikirob

  9. Jeff,

    Great reply and great moderation!

    Sadly, there are too many sites that started out letting a bit get by here and there until things were – and still are – out of hand.

    Best,

    Jim

  10. Hi Jeff…any updates of the Duelund DCA16GA? I am thinking of trying them out. Would be most grateful for some advice. Would there be any problems running them 4 to 4.5Mn per side as speaker cables? Also…what are your thoughts not using connectors…just bare wire.
    Thanks

    • Hi Andrew,

      I’m hoping to post some more impressions this weekend about the DCA16GA speaker cables I made up for my Harbeth Super HL5 loudspeakers, as well as the results of using the Belden 8402 microphone cable interconnects with my Leben CS600 integrated amplifier.

      The DCA16GA speaker cables I made for the Harbeth’s were 3 meters, and that worked very well, so I think you’ll be fine with 4-4.5 meter cables out of the DCA16GA.

      From the listening I’ve done, I’d definitely say the Duelund DCA16GA is the heir apparent to the Western Electric WE16GA, and if anything it is better, which is probably due to the improved dielectric that Frederik employed (oil soaked & baked, cotton).

      I would definitely use bare wire and not use connectors, and that’s what I do. I tried using connectors with the Western Electric WE16GA and I thought it significantly degraded performance over bare wire alone, and I am assuming the result would be the same with the Duelund DCA16GA.

      If you decide to give the Duelund DCA16GA a try let me know how it works out for you.

      Kind regards,

      Jeff

      • Hi Jeff. Thanks so much and eagerly waiting for more impressions on the DCA16GA . I will be getting them for sure and will let you know how I find them.

        Have a good one.

  11. Hi Jeff,

    I’m a little confused about your descriptions of the WE and Duelund wire? I believe in some places you’ve described it being available as a double run (+ and – shown on the WE spool near the top of this post) while other times a single run. I purchased a bit of the WE from the known eBay seller in single runs and so ordered red and black so I would not need to mark them. BTW, I’ve not installed that yet as I expect to move soon and don’t know what lengths will be needed, but hopefully I have enough. ;^)

    Of course now your Duelund reports may influence me to buy that once I know what is needed. So my question may be better answered by Parts Express if I need 1X or 2X the lengths needed.

    • It’s Parts Connection, not Parts Express that carries the Duelund wire.

      It come in single runs, and Jeff has said several times that he loosely twists it to make the runs a bit cleaner.

    • Hi Pryso,

      The WE16GA wire I bought from Yazaki-san comes on the roll as a twisted pair (i.e. there are two wires twisted together, one for + and one for -). As far as I know its no longer available, so I can’t vouch for any of the wire being sold as WE, as I’ve been told a lot of it is now not the real thing.

      The Duelund DCA16GA is a single run of wire, so if you want to make a 2-meter set of speaker cables, for example, you would need to order 8 meters of Duelund DCA16GA. That would give you enough for 2-meter +/- runs for both speakers.

      If I were you I wouldn’t even bother with the WE at this point, as the Duelund DCA16GA beats it at its own game, in my opinion.

      Best,

      Jeff

      • Jeff and Josh,

        Thanks for your clarifications and correction. Now I wonder if I’m loosing it in my old age? ;^)

        And yes, I’ve considered simply ordering the maximum amount of the DCA16GA I might need. I could always use the WE if I set up a second system in a den/office as I hope to do/

        • No worries! I verbally transpose those places about 1/2 the time! 😉

          What I really like about the Duelund wire is that is looks so clean and elegant compared to Belden 9497 or the WE, and light years better than most stuff out there!

  12. Hi Jeff,

    I’m trying to understand why you left the outer casing on the wire you hooked up to the harbeths. Was it just so the ends wouldn’t start fraying? I’m planning to just put a very small amount of solder on the end to stop fraying, as sliding it back out thru 2 connectors as in your photo (mines the same) I figure the casing will slide off anyhow?

    • Yes, you are correct. You can read more about that particular approach here, which is a tip from the recording studio for vintage screw terminal connectors.

      The holes in the Harbeth’s binding posts are large enough to be able to slip the wire & casing through, so it works well there too. A dab of solder on the end will also accomplish the same thing.

      Best,

      Jeff

  13. Is there a way to delete my post? 🙂 I just read the above asking the same question. Although I have the holes question addition to that:)

    • I can delete it for you, dodo. 🙂 The holes in the binding posts all align vertically in my Super HL5’s. If yours don’t, it’s no big deal, just insert the wire horizontally on the bottom posts, and in a nice flowing arc insert them into the top posts, then trim the ends as desired.

      Best,

      Jeff

  14. Jeff,

    Thanks very much for introducing me to this cable! I really like it! One of the best cables I have ever heard if not the best (at least for the money).

    How long/short do you run them or is there any preference (technically at least) to run them short or long?

    • Hi dodo,

      I don’t really worry about how short or long they are, I just use the length that works best for the particular application. In my system that means 2-meter speaker cables, and a combination of 1, 1.5, and 2-meter interconnects.

      Kind regards,

      Jeff

  15. This is my first post. Im an elderly audiophile with 50 years of this particular form of madness to my (dis) credit. Anyway i have been blown away by the Deuland wires and i just want to express my gratitude to you for bringing this to our attention. I have wired my system entirely with D. 16 for the speakers and 20 and 16 as interconnects. I previously was using Sablon panatella gen 2. I found to my dismay that these expensive and reference quality cables were not entirely copacetic in the mix. It appears a total chain of deuland gives the best result. Kind of makes sense…i have never had sound of this quality but i can state with no uncertainty that the 100 hr break in time is indispensable and probably more. Enjoy your site and experience. Thanks

    • Welcome to Jeff’s Place, Shepperd! And thank you for the kind words, appreciated! 🙂

      I too have found that the more Duelund in the signal chain the better. I second your observation on run-in time, at least for now, I think the best approach is to let the Duelund run in naturally, and around the 100 hour mark it starts to settle in.

      Keep me posted on your adventures!

      Kind regards,

      Jeff

      • My pleasure! Admittedly the “natural way” can be very tedious…there has to be something like the zen art of breaking-in components. It’s not only cables…think new caps and the NOS Russian tubes I use. 100+ hours. That’s a long time waiting for things to gel! Sometimes I wish I had never gotten in this deep! Where have the days of a simple receiver, a tuner, some cheap speakers and lamp wire gone??? I am salivating at the thought of Deuland power chord wire. I pray it will be as reasonable and one can buy it terminated. Patience…

  16. what would be the best duelund for solid state system as IC ? pre to power- 16 or 20GA? dont want to sound thin.. Speakers for 12 ga or 16GA? listen in close nearfield…GA for power cables?
    Thank you!

    • Hi Jeffrey,

      I am working on a review that will provide basic guidelines for voicing a system with the Duelund DCA cables, please wait for it! It will be a great help! 🙂

      Unfortunately, it is a little hard to predict what will be best for a given system and an individual listener’s preference, so there is a bit of trial and error involved.

      For speaker cables I like the DCA12GA in my WRSE system, and that would be a reasonable place for you to start. I use a mix of DCA16GA and DCA20GA interconnects in my WRSE system, but maybe for your first try you might want to go with DCA20GA and see how you like it.

      Do not use the Duelund DCA cables for power cables, they are not designed for that, only as signal cables. Using them as power cables could be dangerous.

      I have heard that Frederik is designing special DCA’s to be used as power cables, but that is a rumor and Frederik has not confirmed that, but you can be sure if it happens that I’ll let everyone know immediately, as I’m sure there would be a lot of interest in them.

      All the best,

      Jeff

  17. Jeff,

    Thank you for your detailed reply! Best regards.

    • i see in pictures some of interconnects are twisted and some are not. Recommendations as im making them? also from phono preamp to preamp does not need to be shielded right? my phono preamp as a step up transformer in. Thank you if you can answer!

  18. I saw this as another method similar to yours. Less bare wire is shown. I wonder what the difference is between your method.

    https://goo.gl/vhjcsa

  19. Hi Jeff
    I’m just curious if you still feel a single wire run sounds best with Duelund DCA16GA as speaker cables when the speakers have bi-wire terminals, and in this instance im referring to Tannoys. Just as Tannoys have that 5th binding (ground) post there for a reason, perhaps bi-wire is better suited for Tannoys (by design) more than other companies?
    Ive just ordered some Duelund DCA16GA, but am now wondering if i should double up the order to run bi-wire to my Tannoys.
    Kind regards
    Mark

    • Hi Mark,

      You can read a full report on my current thoughts on setup with the Duelund DCA here.

      At the moment I’m using the DCA12GA as single-run speaker cables to my Duelund CAST crossovers, and am really liking it. Haven’t had the desire to change since I’ve put them in!

      I do connect the grounding point on the drivers to my MC30 monaural amps ground connection with WE16GA, which I think makes a nice difference.

      I don’t really think my WRSE’s respond differently than other speakers regarding bi-wiring or single-wiring the speaker cables, but then I have bypassed the stock crossovers for the Duelund CAST crossovers and used the WE16GA internal wiring to connect directly to the crossovers, so maybe there’s a difference there.

      I urge you to experiment a bit with different wiring combinations, as what works best for me might not be the best match to your personal tastes and associated equipment.

      Let me know how it works out!

      Best,

      Jeff

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