May 042011

I get a lot of e-mail inquiries about the do-it-yourself (DIY) White Lightening Moonshine cables article I wrote for Six Moons way back in September of 2007, which has been second only to the interest generated by the Garrard Project articles (1, 2, 3) I started writing even further back in September of 2004.

I think the reason for those articles enduring popularity is that for a relatively small investment, and a little bit of your own effort, you can own & enjoy some cables or a classic turntable, respectively, that performs as good as anything currently offered in Hi-Fi ‘dom.

I couldn’t have been more delighted than when I saw that Art Dudley started doing a version of the Garrard Project (1, 2) for Stereophile’s readers (still in progress). The main relevance of Art’s Garrard 301 articles to this post is that Art is doing a better version of the Garrard Project than I did back then for Six Moons (I really like Art’s choice of arm, cartridge, and plinth), and more importantly, he’s introducing the delicious Garrard 301 to a much wider Hi-Fi audience through Stereophile. That’s cool.

In like fashion of Art’s Garrard 301 articles to the original Garrard Project, I want to provide you an update to the White Lightening Moonshine article that yields an ultra-performance set of DIY interconnects – as good as anything commercially available – for an investment of peanuts and a few moments of your time. I’ve been wanting to get this update posted for you for about 6 months now, and especially when I found out in the last few days that the Woods patio cord in no longer available, but sometimes there just isn’t enough time in a Day! By the way, these interconnects smoked my buddy Stephaen’s pair of Cardas Golden Cross interconnects that he brought over for comparison. Did I mention that Cardas Golden Cross may be my all time favorite commercial interconnects from a musicality perspective? Interested? Enter the Dark Matter interconnects (so named for the black wire used).

Cardas 4×33 AWG Shielded Tonearm Wire

The first thing you’ll need to do is go buy some Cardas 4×33 AWG shielded tonearm wire to serve as the dark beating musical heart of your new Dark Matter ICs. The Cardas tonearm wire consists of four bundled copper Litz wire conductors in a Teflon wrapped and wire-shielded bundle. A quick search of the internet shows that you can pick it up for between $9-$12 per foot. You’ll need two equal lengths of tonearm wire for each interconnect leg, or four equal lengths for a right and left channel pair of interconnects. So, if you want to make a pair of 1-foot interconnects, you’ll need 4-feet of tonearm wire to make your pair of interconnects. I bought mine from Parts Connexion. Scale up as needed for the length of ICs needed, and give yourself a little extra length so you have some working room should you botch up a termination until you get the hang of it. Technically, there are 4 conductors in each bundle, so if you were really, really, careful, you could make a full stereo pair of interconnects from just one length of wire, but soldering those tiny wires is a pain! Not to mention that when you do it the way I’m showing you below it sounds better.

Switchcraft SWC-3502A RCA Connectors

I’ve tried a boatload of fancy RCA connectors over the years, and I keep coming back to the simple, inexpensive, and dependable Switchcraft SWC-3502A RCAs when I want to make a pair of interconnects for my own use. The SWC-3502A RCA connectors are made by that fine old USA company Switchcraft. How good are they? It’s what Ken Shindo considers to be the best-sounding RCA regardless of cost and he uses them exclusively on his superb Shindo Silver interconnects. To make the whole thing even sweeter, you can buy them online from CMH Electronics for the ridiculously low price of $2.25 per RCA. To order them, click here and search on SWC-3502A. The SWC-3502A will pop and you can add the quantity you need to your cart. You’ll need 4 SWC-3502A RCAs for each pair of Dark Matter interconnects you want to make, which will set you back $9 USD. Not bad for a little Switchcraft witchcraft in your new interconnects eh? That’s around $50 in materials for a world class pair of 1-foot interconnects (or $150 per meter) – ones that would sell for $1K to $2K per meter given their level of performance – not bad eh?

Putting It All Together

I’m assuming that if you’re into doing a little DIY Hi-Fi fun & games you’ve already got a soldering station and some silver solder in your Hi-Fi kit, but if not, you could do a lot worse than the Hakko 936 soldering station like I bought a couple of years ago, which you can pick up online for around $70-$80 USD – a bargain. I don’t have a favorite silver solder, and you won’t need much, so buy accordingly (also available at Parts Connexion).

To get started, lay out all your soldering kit and get your soldering station warming up. For silver solder you’ll want to set your temperature to 800 degrees.

Next cut 4 equal lengths of the Cardas tonearm wire. Take one length of the tonearm wire and trim back about 1/2-inch the black casing, exposing the shielding and Teflon-wrapped conductors inside. I used a little pair of scissors like you’d find in the ladies’ section of a grocery store. Just slip the tip of the scissors inside the casing, slit it, then trim it off.

I like to separate the wire shield and twist it into two little pig tails in preparation for trimming it off.

Next trim off the wire shielding. Being very careful not to damage the enamel covered wire conductors (one each, red, green, blue, and white) inside the thin Teflon wrap underneath it. Then trim off the Teflon wrap. I find it best to grab hold of the Teflon wrap and stretch it out a bit, then carefully trim it off, being extra careful not to cut off the fine conductors inside.

Now take the tonearm cable with exposed conductors and lay it down on your soldering surface (I use an old breadboard dedicated to that purpose), and take your hot soldering iron and carefully scrape the enamel off the conductors to reveal the fine copper wire inside. Be sure to clean the burned enamel of your soldering-iron tip.

Now twirl the conductors together and ‘tin’ the end with a little silver solder.

I think it is a good idea to take a small piece of black electrical tape and wrap it around the wire to cover up any stray wires in the shield that may be sticking out. If one of those stray wires from the shield happens to touch the other channel in the RCA body you’ll likely get a short, which will be an unpleasant discovery after all that work in putting your interconnects together, because then you’ll have to tear them apart and start over.

Now slip the tinned end of the tonearm wire onto the RCA return and crimp down the metal tab to hold it in place.

Now solder the tinned & crimped return wire in place.

Next prepare another length of tonearm wire – as above – by stripping off about a 1/2-inch of the casing, shielding, Teflon wrap, enamel, tape it, and twist the conductors together and tin them. This length of wire will server as the signal leg of your interconnect. Now solder it into the RCA pin.

Now crimp down the ‘tail’ tabs to hold everything in place securely.

Now slide the RCA barrel over the wires and screw it in place. Ta-da! You are now one quarter of the way to a pair of interconnects!

If you want to be really cool you can slide a little red shrink-fit tubing onto the tonearm wires to identify the right channel, or you could be ultra-pragmatic and just put a “+” with a Sharpie permanent ink marker on the barrel ends of each RCA instead.

So you don’t get distracted and forget, slide the barrel for the RCA on the other end over the tonearm wires before you prep the tonearm wire ends. Now just repeat the procedure above for the other end. Be sure you connect the correct tonearm wire pin to pin, and return to return – mark them with a little piece of tape if you need to so you don’t mix them up, or you’ll be in for a nasty surprise when you go to hook things up.

Ta da! You have now completed the right channel Dark Matter interconnect! Now repeat the procedure for the left channel interconnect and you’re done.

So now you are the proud constructor of your very own set of world-class interconnects, so give yourself a pat on the back for your efforts. When you plug & unplug your interconnects always be sure to grip the RCA body and not the wire conductors to do it, as tonearm wire is very fragile and too hard of a pull on the wire could destroy them. If you have a cable burn in device – recommended for all cables, DIY or commercial – now’s the time to condition your new cables. Then plug them into your audio gear and be prepared to be impressed with the fruit of your labors! Enjoy!

 Posted by at 2:49 pm

  46 Responses to “DIY World-Class Interconnects for Peanuts – The Dark Matter IC”

  1. Hi Jeff,

    Hmmm, interesting. Cardas Tonearm wire (all four wires for “+” or for “-“) to use it as IC.

    It will be good to tray Cardas Tonearm Wire 4 x 32 AWG in same configuration for IC. It’s new (still not in shops), I get it directly from Mr. Cardas for re-wireing my Kuzma Stabi Stogi combination. This new (4 x 32 AWG) wire is top quality I can only imagine how it will sound as IC.

    I will tray 4 x 33 as IC and came beck to report.


    • Hi Vladimir,

      Let me know how it turns out, and also about any other combinations you might try. I always love to hear about something new that is a very good value that I can share with others.

      Kind regards,


  2. J, you may want to float this out there on the Diy Community’s discussion centers before making some of the conclusions drawn here. There are some basic advantages that are being defeated here.

    Agree that using the cardas wire you use is going to be a pretty inexpensive way to go for superior interconnects, and the SC connectors aren’t bad either. It’s a great-sounding, fully audiophile grade wire, at a price just a little uphill from premium microphone cable. (tip: same wire, in it’s “*4 x 24ga… 3.5mm diameter shielded four conductor version” is available from cardas for even less, as “chassis wire” and does NOT have to be doubled ……..)

    Also agree that doubling it is a good way to get to a reasonable current handling overhead. If twisted together well.

    There are a trillion ways to skin this cat, and twice as many opinions on the opinionated net, so I’ll try to keep this to a really minimal, non controversial couple of points.

    You may want to reconsider :

    * the internal winding of individual conductors in the cardas is a noise-rejection strategy … and this plan defeats it.
    Consider using, say, the white & blue for signal, and the red & green for return — to take advantage of the existing winding benefits.

    * the Shield is another anti emf /rfi noise rejection strategy… that is being defeated here. Try connecting it to the Return conductor — at just ONE end of the interconnect. Generally it’s the destination end that works best, but label it and try it both ways. Don’t snip it off to defeat it, though.

    * if you MUST use each cardas length as one conductor, and without a shield, at the very least twist the two together thoroughly for some measure of noise rejection.

    * if you live in a miraculous emi / rf -free zone and want to go for the ultimate low-capacitance interconnects, use the wire here without the outer insulator jacket, and without the shield. Separate all the conductors and get little sister to braid it into a “most turns per millimeter” braid. In some instances, well away from AC hum, for example, this can sound really clean, airy & light. Sometimes tooo light, though. Most of us have too many hum sources and magnetics hovering around behind our components for this to work infallibly.

    Perhaps other diy cable designers will comment here, with more educated advice, but these are kind of Minimum basic adjustments. When you pay Cardas for the shielded, four-conductor tonearm cable, it’s kind of insane not to utilize all the benefits already present in his design.

    keep up the diy articles, good luck,

    • Hi J.D.

      Good advice on interconnects in your message.

      You’d be shocked if you knew how many permutations of these interconnects I’ve tried – at least I am! 😉 – including the ones you mentioned. The hypothetical and theoretical posits are all well and good – and important considerations to keep in mind for sure – but the version I wrote about was the version that I actually enjoyed listening to the most, so that’s what I wrote about. It’s also relatively cheap and easy to build.

      All of the permutations sounded different for sure, and I suppose that depending on one’s taste and system configuration that it is easily possible someone might like one version over the other. That’s all good. I just like the way the interconnect plays music, but that’s me.

      What I would really like to see is for folks to share their results when they think they’ve found a really special combination, and I’ll be glad to post the details for everyone to try if they’d like.

      Thanks for stopping by, and if you have some interconnects or speaker cables you’ve made that you really, really, like, be sure to tell us about them!

      Kind regards,


      • I’ve just finished making my own Cardas 32 AWG x 4 phono cable. I used 4 cables (2 per channel) similar to your IC, but grounded the sheild of the negative to the RCA ends.

        Initially I was just going to double the cable up, but after reading how Graham Engineering used a 4 cable construction of silver wire for their top phone cable (which is supposedly better than the double construction configuraiton), I decide to give it a try.

        Unfortunately I cannot tell you how it sounds until I receive my pre-amp back from the manufacturer.

    • Hi Everybody!

      Apologies for the gigantic thread bump but I found this site about a year ago and bookmarked it…now I have come back (with a little more knowledge) and I am perplexed to say the least.

      Absolutely no disrespect intended whatsoever Jeff; your ‘real world knowledge’ and the comments by others are GOLD!

      However I believe that most here are talking about these dual male RCA cables in reference to home audio; where EMI, RF and ground loops are not rarely that much of an issue (relative to my next example anyway). For mine I have had two different Denon AV Receivers hooked up with HDMI and have been happy all the way. Have not touched the speaker cable or interconnects as it sounds good with ‘relatively’ cheap cable for both.

      However my ‘passion’ is car audio! Hence my comment regarding induced noise above…cars are a noise playground. My extensive research leads me to the end result that really reinforces some – not all – of J.D.’s comments.

      Your first comment mate (J.D.) of bonding all four individual wires together I would have thought is a given. For mine this bonding just makes an expensive four wire smaller gauge cable into a slightly fancy version of a larger gauge single cable…? I mean no offence again and pardon my ignorance – but I don’t see from a theory POV how this has any benefit. For the record I know the answer to that is ‘make some and see for yourself’ but at $150/m when I need something like 10m overall in my car…not going to be a ‘hey why not…lets have some fun and see what happens!!’ type of project!

      Your second comment of grounding the shield my research tells me is just fraught with danger and with negligible positive result.

      However your third comment of twisting the cables together is just a given. I have heard a number of reasons why it is beneficial but suffice it to say I am convinced that the ‘twisted pair’ design is the way to go.

      From here I will add that the main aim in car audio is to get rid of the ubiquitous noise floor…hence the shielding is paramount. Double or triple shielding (combination of foil and braiding) is the go.

      I guess in summary – based on the fact that these are for the AUDIO SPECTRUM – by all means spend as much money on wire to and connectors as you wish. However it boils down to four things: twisted pair construction, good connectors and soldered connections to them, foil shielding and finally braided shielding.

      Wire in this format can be bought from the local store reasonably cheap (penny’s compared to Tonearm) and of all I have read and seen it will sound great.

      I guess I have to disclaimer here that I am MUCH MORE geared towards EMI, RF and other noise floor issues than whether or not a particular construction sounds brighter or darker or fuller or more dynamic. Too many times any such word is irrelevant due to that monotone hum or the shrill whining during acceleration! Removal of them allows a base to EQ from…so to some extent I guess I am really noobing it nicely but on the other hand I am coming from a different angle where the comparison of how dynamic some interconnects are is really ‘outweighed’ by their ability to shield exterior noise ingress.

      Anyway Jeff…apologies if this is a bit of a red herring but I did appreciate this information and other information on the site and also all comments here as well…very informative! Whilst it is highly unlikely I will try DIY interconnects the information here does support my research and considering that all comments here are obviously from audiophiles with plenty more knowledge in their little finger than I have overall that does give a semblance of ‘comfort’!

      It is a shark infested scoundrel’s dream out there on the net and finding the right information is pretty hard. Good to find knowledgeable and respectful people sharing their thoughts without resorting to vulgarity.

      Cheers Jeff and all,
      Captain Buff

  3. Hey Jeff

    Six of one & a half dozen of the other to be sure.
    I just wanted to add the obvious ‘pre existing’ manufacturer design points, as mentioned (the winding, the shield, etc).

    If I had a current fave– (I sometimes think I just like the sound of Newly Constructed ones the best) — it would be the aforementioned Cardas 4×24 shielded chassis cable terminated with — Neutrik – Rean nickel-plate rca plugs. (Give these a google, coincidentally they’re very very close to the Switchcraft.) Not the gold ones, but the nickel ones.

    Two other very inexpensive cables –that you can’t go wrong with — are Canare Star Quad and the Mogami version of same, which is slightly different and which I like better. The Mogami is ‘Neglex 2534’. A very solid basic minimum for shielded cable. Both are recording industry standards, running into the literally millions of feet, in studios worldwide.

    Anyway, in almost all cases, the shield is disconnected at Source side and bonded to the return conductor on the Destination end. This is pretty standard practice in pro-sound land, which of course is the cable and procedural realm that brings us our recordings in the first place. ( full disclosure there : that is,when they use single-ended rca, which is almost never– it’s generally Xlr balanced, but still– destination shield…)

    One thing I’ve found is that while you can do a lot of Diy with interconnects, somehow Loudspeaker Cable is best left to the commercial offerings. Nothing diy has ever gotten me anywhere near even the basic Kimber, Cardas AQ etc speaker cables. I can hear non-audio wire in the speaker context instantly and it sounds thick, inarticulate.

    Nearly all roads lead to Rome, but not all.
    Agree that you should do a compendium of popular I/C recipes.
    It may be that really there aren’t as many as we suspect, which might mean… they’re good ?

  4. Hello Jeff,
    I enjoyed reading about the cables you made.

    For my diy, ive been somewhat lazy, been buying neotech silver in teflon tubing, very nice sound to me. I used neutrik from element14( same as farnell Uk and Newark USA), they were branded neutruk and sealed in bags with made in Liechtenstein, now can only seem to get Rean. From reading what you said about Switchcraft and they are used on expenisve cables i am curious about them, they might be less stressful on the rca socket ( Neutrik are very tight fitting). Have you come across the Deltron brand, hollow pin rcas and solid also., i have the gold detlron 4mmm bananas and they seem really nice for the speaker cables.


  5. I just made up some cables with this recipe for my phono pre, which also has Cardas litz tonearm wire. Sounds magnificent with my analog rig. Will make up some more between pre and SET amp, and see how this sounds.

    • Hey 99’er,

      They really are nice aren’t they? I’ve really enjoyed them, and I think a lot of people would be shocked at how really good they are compared to even the most exotic cables available.



  6. Whoops I meant my tonearm is wired with Cardas litz, not my phono pre.

  7. hello Jeff,
    I am thinking of getting the gold plated Switchcraft with black handle, as found a Switchcraft supplier in Australia. They look a long rca plug, would they put much weight on the rca socket ? Another question have you ever compared them with other expensive rca like Eichmann or WBT?

    Have a great new year


  8. Hi Jeff, just wanted to let you know that the Yard Master is still available in my area. I have no way of knowing if the cable stock is the same as the stock you wrote about but my initial listening impressions have been good.

  9. Hi Jeff, I was wondering if you would be willing to describe the type of sound that you are hearing from these IC’s?

    Thanks for any help.


  10. Hi Jeff,
    No need reply me now. I ordered the 3502aabu with black handle , sell only 5:30$ Au, sure weight be ok. U like them and Shindo uses them, is enough for me, so getting them.

    • Hey Sam,

      Be sure to let us know what you think of them.

      Kind regards,


      • Hey Jeff,
        Sorry for the delay was doing the annual cleaning of my equipment.
        The Switchcraft are awesome. Great to see get a plug that isnt chinese made. I love how you can securely cramp the outer contact, and the gold finish looks better than the Neutrik. Sound great also, i like them more than the neutrik, and deltrons. I feel like i could replace them all with Switchcraft.


  11. Early days with these (about 100 hours) but I am really starting to hear their potential. Nice synergy with the White Lightning speaker cable as well. Very musical IC. Thanks for the tip.

    • Hey Sean,

      They are amazingly good, for sure. I’m glad you’re enjoying them. A tip of the hat to Pete Riggle who shared that discovery with me.



  12. Pete Riggle is behind this conspiracy? Now I understand!

  13. I am thinking of trying your dark matter recipe . Can you describe the sound of the cables a little.
    I currently have prosilway 3 . Which I like I would like to try making a copper DIY interconnect but I don’t want something that will be too warm sounding , I think the golden cross was pretty warm and ripe sounding as I recall. Are the dark matter cables similar in this respect? If so what bulk wire do you recommend to go with the switchcraft rca

    • Hi David,

      The description above describes them pretty closely – they sound more like Golden Cross than not, being a bit warm, dark, and dimensional. Use the bulk wire I recommended above from Cardas. Since I wrote that I have decided to not use Switchcraft any more, I’ve had too many problems with them making a good connection. Here on this site Mark Coles posted about an RCA to try that is inexpensive to try that is really good, I suggest giving them a try. (you can use the search function to find them)

      Let us know how it works out for you!

      Kind regards,


  14. Many thanks for this post, as well as your other reviews. I’ve read that silver cabling can tend toward the brighter side. I’ve got a system with Shindo Aurieges preamp, Sophia Electric 300b monos and Tannoy Sterlings. It doesn’t tend toward brightness but I’d hate to go too far. Any sense of whether these dark matter cables are something to try or to avoid? thanks!

    • Hi SB,

      Silver cabling can be on the bright side, but not all silver ICs are like that. Take for example the Sablon Audio Panatela interconnects, they’re remarkably natural and musical.

      I think the Panatelas would be a great match for your system, and I also think the Dark Matter interconnects would be a good match as a DIY project as well.

      After you give them a try, check back in and let me know how you like them.

      Kind regards,


  15. I was hoping to use these as a tonearm lead. I had heard that using them this way might have too higher capacitance. Keen for your thoughts?

  16. Hello Jeff,

    May I know how does it compare with 47labs 0.4mm Stratos wire as interconnect?


    • Hi Rock,

      The Dark Matter ICs are darker, richer, more tonally colorful, and have a more robust bass response than the 47 Labs ICs.



  17. hi, I made these last night and they sound excellent. I’m getting some hum though on my system – when I squeeze the ends of the plugs against the sockets it improves a little. I can tighten the sockets but I guess I may need to incorporate an earthing cable into the design. Stupid question I know, but is an earthing cable basically just a piece of wire connected to the ground signal on one or both of the RCA plugs at either end?

    • Hi Paul,

      I’ve never used an earthing cable, so I’m not much help there. It sounds to me like you either have an issue with one of the RCA plugs, or possibly one of the return wires is shorting against one of the signal wires inside the RCA plug (The wires in these cables are so tiny that it can happen quite easily). I Went through a bad batch of Switchcraft RCAs there for a while and have decided to quit using them. It might be worth it to switch out RCAs for something else. I remember that in one of the comments Mark Coles suggested a budget RCA of high quality to use, so it might be worth search to see if you can find it (or maybe Mark will see this and remind us what it is).

      Good luck!

      Kind regards,


  18. Thanks Jeff,

    I’m currently experimenting with ways of reducing the hum. I used Neutrik phono plugs for my first cable which have always performed well for me.

    I like this Cardas wire so much I just made another another one of these but this time using switchcraft plugs as suggested above – I can see what you mean! I must have got some bad ones, they’re terrible – noisy and dropping channels. I’ve tried re-soldering them to no improvement. Think I’ll stick with Neutrik.

    Cheers. Paul

  19. Thank you for the Dark Matter IC idea. Do you think that using a solder pot to remove the enamel would be as good as your method of scraping the enamel off with a soldering iron. I have the soldering iron you recommend. Also if I use your plan but modify it by combining the shield on the two cables at the destination end and either twist the two cables together or use heat shrink to keep them parallel will I lose the magic you described? Your website is fun. This is my first visit. Thanks in advance for you assistance. By the way I don’t know what URI stands for. Joe Fagan

    • Hi Joe,

      I haven’t tried what you suggest for removing the enamel, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Give it a try and let me know how it works. I haven’t tried the wiring variation you mention so I can’t help there. If you decide to try it let me know how it works out.

      Have fun, and thanks for stopping by!

      Kind regards,


  20. Hi Jeff,

    Im ready to try building the dark matters. I have built the wlm cables and like them very much. How would you compare the wlm and the dark matters? Which do you like best?thank you and please continue the great work. I enjoy your articles very much and is an invaluable resource to folks around the world. GREAT JOB…..

    Best Regards,

  21. Thanks Jeff for this. I have two questions:
    – How did you get the doubled wires together? It’s not apparent in the final photo.
    – Where is Mark Coles suggestion about RCA connectors? I’ve searched and looked everywhere.


  22. Jeff,

    I enjoyed your original article in Six Moons and just discovered your site. I was about to go out and see if the Wood Yard Master was still available but wanted to find out if you have a similar update and/or recommendations concerning speaker cables as you have done here with ICs?



    • Hi Michael,

      I don’t have an updated speaker cable project out, but I think the Wood’s speaker cable project is hard to beat, so definitely give them a try.

      Thanks for stopping by



  23. I don’t like the Neutrik ? REANS interconnects … they are too loose on some of my equipment’s female RCAs. My go-to connector for inexpensive, high performing (ie good value) interconnects are the Canare F-09 and F-10. Gold plated brass, teflon dielectric, Japan made, and they fit extremely well on all the gear I’ve tried them with. About $US 4 each, and readily available.

  24. Hi, First post on here so I just though I would let you know that I have just constructed a set of the “Dark Matter ICs. I am in the process of adding a musical fidelity tube buffer to my solid state system to add some tube magic so I needed another set of ICs. I am still in the process of upgrading the buffer so thought I would remove a set of my preferred cryo silver ICs and add the dark matter just to see what they sounded like. Well now, that’s made a significant change to the sound and I agree that they are dark, warm and dimensional. I sat down last night and put on a couple of my favourite albums and at first thought that there was a veil over the music but that’s actually not the case, its just a different presentation.The more I listened the more I liked it, wide, deep and dare I say slightly euphoric. So to sum up, a must try if anyone is in the market for some ICs and you like a nice warm dimensional presentation. A big thanks from me and keep up the good work.
    how do the Dueland ICs sound in comparison?
    regards Simon

    • Hi Simon,

      Thanks for the report, and I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the Dark Matter IC’s you built, they are very nice!

      I recommend you read the various posts about Duelund DCA & silver interconnects, which will give you a much better idea of what the various Duelund IC’s perform like than any short answer I could give here.

      Like the Dark Matter IC’s, the Duelund DCA IC’s provide world class performance for a modest investment, so you’ll have a lot of fun with those too!

      Kind regards,


  25. Dear Jeff,

    Now your idea got two babies, a son and a daughter:

    I was searching for an good 5m XLR connection to the monitors (Mytek DAC -> Shindo Pre -> Neumann monitors) and after reading your article
    I transferred your idea:

    took a “Sommer Peacock mkII”, two connectors of the first cable to pin 2 PLUS,
    two connectors of the second cable to pin 3 MINUS, and the two shields to pin 1 GROUND,
    ready. This son of your idea shows clear hights and amazing 3D imaging, impressive.

    The daugther of your idea is realized with two “Kabeltronik KL-RF”, some skills in configuring needed, with very impressive results.

    Thank you for publishing this idea!

    • You are welcome, Walter, and thank you for the kind words! I’m glad you have enjoyed it!

      Kind regards,


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