Jun 022017

In my first post about my very preliminary first listening impressions of the Duelund DCA12GA tinned-copper tone wire speaker cables, that I had just cut cold off the roll, I told you how the DCA12GA as speaker cables on my Westminster’s were warmer & richer sounding than the my usual bi-wire Duelund DCA16GA/DA20GA speaker cables, which I liked a lot.

Cowboy Junkies’ The Trinity Session.

I also thought that the sibilance region for horns and voices sounded more natural with the DCA12GA, and that the DCA12GA had good measures of that familiar vividness, beautiful tone color, and timbral ‘realness’ that I love about tinned-copper conductors.

I had a few nits to pick with the DCA12GA cold off the roll though, as I thought that with the DCA12GA there was a slight ‘dryness’ to the vocals on the Cowboy Junkies’ The Trinity Session LP that I hadn’t noticed with my bi-wired DCA16GA/DCA20GA speaker cables, and that there were occasional instances of stridency as well.

Duelund DCA12GA interconnects!

I liked what I was hearing so much with the Duelund DCA12GA as speaker cables, that I built a pair of interconnects out of the fat Duelund DCA12GA tinned-copper wire too.

That’s not what one does with interconnects normally, because skinnier gauge wires are de rigueur for interconnects, and it takes some work to accommodate the tubby DCA12GA within the RCA’s, but more about the DCA12GA interconnects later.

I also mentioned that I had cut a second set of Duelund DCA12GA to use for speaker cables that I was going to put on my Cable Cooker for a few days to get a better idea of what a set of run-in DCA12GA sounds like.

Cooked DCA12GA speaker cables.

The extra set of DCA12GA speaker cables have been cooking away for four days now, so I pulled them off the cooker and put them into the system in place of the uncooked DCA12GA speaker cables, and gave them a listen with The Sergio Mendes Trio’s Brasil ’65 LP.

I noticed right away that while they maintained their warm and rich presentation, they also had opened up quite a lot to sound more spacious and articulate, with more low level detail emerging.

The vividness, tone color, and timbral ‘realness’ that I heard from the DCA12GA with no run-in time, sounded similar, but perhaps subtly improved.

I also noticed right away that the cooked DCA12GA had a more convincing portrayal of tempos, so that was a definite plus as well.

The nits I had to pick, the vocal dryness and occasional hints of stridency, didn’t show up at all on Brasil ’65 LP as I listened to it.

I put back on Cowboy Junkies’ The Trinity Session LP that I heard the vocal dryness and occasional hints of stridency on, and I thought that those qualities were still there, but in reduced amounts on the cooked DCA12GA.

I should point out that I still have the uncooked DCA12GA interconnects in the system, so that may be contributing to the nits.

So the plan now is to put the uncooked DCA12GA speaker cables onto the Cooker, along with the DCA12GA interconnects, and cook them for a while to hear what happens.

I think that with the bigger DCA12GA, they may need more time on the cooker to fully run-in, so I’m going to cook them for a full week.

I’ll report back on the results of that cooking session in about a week, so please wait for it! 🙂


As always, thanks for stopping by!

 Posted by at 1:59 pm

  65 Responses to “Duelund DCA12GA Tinned-Copper Speaker Cable Listening Impressions after 4 Days on the Cooker!”

  1. Hi Jef, that’s very reassuring, as my DCA12GA just arrived yesterday afternoon. I put it on my DIY cooker (just an old portable CD player system with 8 Ohm resistors in series with the wire), and I’ll let it run for a while before I hook it up. Fingers crossed!

    Best regards,

    • Hi Richard,

      I predict you’ll find the DCA12GA an enjoyable experience!

      Keep me posted on your impressions as you get some more time on them.

      Kind regards,


  2. I just finished installing my DCA12GA on my front speakers in my AV system to break in and are listening to them as I write this .. they replaced some Mogami 3103. Cold & not cooked, I am really impressed with the major difference. Sounds like lots of ‘audio gold’ to be mined yet. Thanks so much to all for your good input !

    • Dear Burphardt,

      Thank you so much for the kind words, appreciated!

      I really like the DCA12GA too, and keep me posted on your results as you get some more time on them!

      Kind regards,


      • I have added a second lead of DCA16GA to the first lead of DCA12GA and am burning them in as we speak. The 12GA by it self did not image as much as I would have liked & seemed to confine the soundstage a little. Adding the 16GA definitely moves the sonic picture in the right direction with more impact & wider staging. Will update as the new config settles in.

        • Thanks for the update, Burphardt!

          Definitely, experimenting with combining different gauges of DCA is the way to go until you get it exactly the way want it.

          Keep me posted on how it works out!

          Kind regards,


  3. Tell Jeff, which Duelund (DCA12,16,20GA) is best for connecting the speakers inside?

    • Hi Chris,

      I haven’t really tried that yet, as it’s a big job with the Westminster’s, and I’m thinking about how best to go about it.

      For the low-frequency wiring I’m thinking the DCA12GA could be pretty nice, but the DCA16GA is a possibility too. For my high-frequency wiring I’m thinking of the DCA20GA, or possibly the Duelund silk/silver 1.0 or 2.0.

      I have a couple of more Duelund wiring trials I want to do with my Duelund outboard crossovers, and then I’ll have a better idea what I want to put inside the West’s.

      When I get it all figured out, I want to write a feature article for Positive Feedback about rewiring my entire WRSE system with the Duelund wire, and discuss the different voicing options that the different wires offer.

      It sure has been fun giving the different Duelund wires a try in my system!

      Kind regards,


  4. used a duelund silk 1.0 flat silver for high tones of Tannoy Gold Dual concentric and I have to say it fell out of favor. The sound made flat, stiff without emotion without music without plans. Everything came back to life after connecting dca12ga duelund.
    Not always what silver and expensive must be better

    • Hi Chris,

      It’s not always easy to tell what wire will work best for a particular application. Right now I’m using shielded Duelund DCA16GA IC’s from my Intact Audio SUT to my MX110Z pre, and Duelund Silver 1.0 from the Aria Lab SUT to my MX110Z pre, and both are good matches to those cartridge SUT combinations. I’ve got the Duelund DCA20GA as interconnects from the MX110Z to my MC30 monaural amplifiers, and DCA12GA speaker cables from my amps to my WRSE’s crossovers. Internally in my crossovers I’m using DCA16GA for the LF circuits and DC20GA for the HF circuits, but I intend to play with that little more not that I have the DCA12GA here.

      I’ll also be curious about the new solid-core tinned-copper DCA26GA that will be coming out in the near future, and there’s a couple of applications I want to try that in.

      I’ve not been considering the cost of what goes where, just the musicality & sonics, and it seems as if there is a nice match for each part of the signal chain in my system, which gives a lot of flexibility in voicing.



  5. My speakers are three way active. Would going with 12 Ga on the woofers, 14 on the mods and 16 on the tweeters make sense?

    • Hi Craig,

      I’m not quite sure what you’re asking me. Are you talking about internal wiring? By active, do you mean the speakers have amplifier modules built in?



      • I have external amps with an electronic crossover. I am thinking about going with the 16 Ga on the mids and tweets and the 12 Ga on the low freq, below 300 hz.

        • Hi Craig,

          At the moment I’m getting really good results with the Duelund DCA20GA in the HF section of my WRSE’s crossovers, Duelund DCA16GA in the LF section of the crossovers, and Duelund DCA12GA as speaker cables connected the LF connection of the crossovers, with a DCA12GA jumper to the HF section of the crossovers.

          It’s hard to predict what you’ll like the best in your setup, but I’d guess that DCA20GA on the highs, DCA16GA on the mids, and DCA12GA on the lows would be a pretty good place to start.

          Good luck, and let me know how it works out!

          Kind regards,


  6. Hi Jeff,

    Is there a conclusion on best duelund wire GA for speakers? 12ga, 16 ga, other? what about soaking in bees wax as mentioned in another post either these or the western electrics)? Thank you for all your posts!

    • Hi Jeffrey,

      Thanks for the kind words, appreciated!

      I think what you are asking is probably an impossible question to answer in the sense you are asking it, that is, “What is the best DCA speaker cable?”

      All of the Duelund DCA series of tinned-copper cables share a familial tinned-copper sound, that is, a certain vividness of presentation, convincing timbral textures, great intelligibility of tone colors, a ‘real’ feeling to the sound, and an engaging musical presentation, as well as good audiophile style sonics.

      Which one you will like the best will depend on the speakers you are using it with, your tastes, your associated equipment, your room’s influence, and your preferred styles of music, meaning there isn’t a single absolute best choice of DCA for all applications.

      While I’m still experimenting with different combinations of DCA in my different systems, I’ve really like the DCA16GA on my Harbeth’s and vintage Altec A5’s as speaker cables, and the combination of DCA16GA for the LF’s and DCA20GA for the HF’s on my Tannoy Westminster’s sounded very good as well.

      At the moment on my WRSE’s I’m using DCA12GA with DCA12GA jumpers to the HF connections, and it sounds great.

      To start with I suggest you pick either the DCA16GA or DCA12GA, and then get some extra of the other, and some DCA20GA, to experiment with jumpers to high-, mid-, and low-frequency connections so you can get a feel for what each one does.

      That’s probably you’re best path to figuring out what will be the best choices for your needs and preferences.

      Kind regards,


  7. Thank you for your response! will keep following this page!

  8. I hate being a lone dissenter but…

    I just got done installing the Duelend 12ga speaker cables. In my system (Wilson Duettes, PS Audio BHK Electronics) the Duelund’s sound thin and bass shy compared to a pair of 8ga silver coated copper cables I made off of wire I bought on eBay.

    Now the Duelund’s only have 2 days on the cable cooker so maybe they will improve but the bass is noticeably deficient in my setup.

    • Hi Ian,

      Thanks for sharing your results. Even though your results didn’t turn out as hoped, it’ll help others with similar equipment know that it’s not a synergistic match.

      Kind regards,


      • You know what’s funny Jeff, I tried WE 12ga cable on that equipment about a year ago. I had different speakers at the time (Sonus Faber Liutos) and the WE didn’t sound great either. Yet in my home theater setup with Revels the WE cable sounds awesome. Go figure. Maybe it’ s something to do with the PS Audio BHK amp. That ones a hybrid, tube input/SS output. Is it possible the Duelund is just better with tube amps?

        Unfortunately I now have about $500 of Duelund cable sitting around, lol.


        • Hi Ian,

          Most of my systems use high-sensitivity horns (WRSE’s, Altec A5’s, Altec A7’s), and vacuum tube amplification, so I suppose that could be a factor. Although, I’ve had good results too with my Harbeth Super HL5 loudspeakers, and the Spec RSA-M3 EX class D amplifier, using both Western Electric and Duelund DCA tinned-copper cables.

          I’ve never tried the WE12GA, just the WE16GA, but it has worked well as speaker cables for me, and I’m currently using it for internal wiring in my Westminster’s to excellent effect.

          I suppose for any given cable there’s equipment that its going to work well with, and there’s bound to be equipment where it doesn’t work so well, and I guess you’ve found a couple of examples! 😉

          Anyways, have fun in your audio adventures!

          Kind regards,


          • HI Jeff,
            I am using Spec RSA-717ex and the problem is that I can;t source the WE tinned cables here in Thailand, however I can get the Duelund DCA tinned cables 20/16GA, will that be be good match for Spec RSA-717ex and Amphion Argon speakers?

          • Hi Murgesh,

            I am not familiar with your loudspeakers, but the tinned-copper WE and Duelund DCA cables match nicely with my Spec amplifier and the various loudspeakers I’ve tried it with. I prefer the Duelund DCA cables to the WE, and you are fortunate to have access to them where you live in Thailand – that’s great! For more ideas on using the DCA cables in your system read here.

            Kind regards,


          • HI Jefff,
            Thanks, I will try Duelund DCA cables For spec, I tried supra cables few week back, it sounded better than the Furutech, the sound was more balanced and easy on ears with plenty of details.

            And details about my speakers..http://www.amphion.fi/en/products/argon1/

          • Let me know how it works out for you, Murgesh!

            Kind regards,


          • Hi Jeff,
            I got those cables last weekend, it is sounding different in good-way. with 20+ hours they are already better then my previous cables.

            Thanks for spreading the good knowledge among audiophiles, members like me will definitely get benefited.

            Murgesh J

          • Hi Murgesh,

            That’s great! I’m glad you’re enjoying them, and let me know what you hearing after you get some more hours on them!

            Kind regards,


          • HI Jeff,
            After trying it secondary system for few weeks, I put back the Duelund DCA cables on my primary system and it sounded great, more details, smooth presentation, bass has structure now, before it was bloating. Highs are bit sharp but not fatigue..

            I am planning to buy another set for my 2nd system.


            Murgesh J

          • That’s a great result, Murgesh!

            Keep me posted on your adventures with the Duelund DCA cables!

            Kind regards,


        • Hi Ian/Jeff
          I must be one of the lucky ones! The WE16ga sounded great and the Duelund even better. I found the 12 ga WE to be thinner sounding with smaller staging. BUT I might be able to take some of your 12ga off your hands if you have enough for a 2.5 to 3m run. The 16 ga sounds excellent as speaker wire in my system (primaLuna prologue 2 and opera callas), but the extra extension is wasted on my old dog feeling ears and I have an admitted sweet tooth when it comes to audio. So, I am likely in the 12 ga’s wheel house!

          • Hi Art,

            I too thought both the WE16GA and DCA16GA sounded great, but ultimately I prefer the DCA16GA.

            I haven’t tried the WE12GA, but I really like the DCA12GA as speaker cables, they’re a great match to my WRSE-based system, sounding rich, warm, colorful, and nuanced.

            Currently I am using WE16GA as internal wiring in my West’s (it’s a big job to change it), DCA20GA in the HF circuit of my Duelund CAST crossovers, DCA16GA in the LF circuit of my Duelund CAST crossovers, DCA12GA as speaker cables, DCA20GA as interconnects from preamp to amps, shielded DCA16GA from SUT to preamp, and shielded Duelund 1.0 silver/silk interconnects from the 2nd SUT to preamp.

            It makes for a great combination!

            I’m working on a survey review of the Duelund DCA series of tinned-copper wire now, so I’ll be saying a lot more about Duelund DCA wire shortly.

            Kind regards,


          • Thanks, Jeff. I gathered your preferences from earlier postings. I’m having a pair of 20ga DCA interconnects put together for me, but wonder if the signal from my CDP/DAC to my integrated should be shielded. Do you believe it’s the smaller current strength from your SUts that requires the shielding or mostly trial and error? Looking forward to further installments in your survey article in PF.

            I’m going to go with the 12g DCA for speaker cable – that will free up a lot of 16ga for interconnects, so I could have shielded and unshielded sets made up for me and decide for myself…I found some inexpensive Neotech DG 303 RCA connectors at SonicCraft on closeout that sound really nice.

          • Hi Art,

            You should be fine without shielding on the DCA20GA from your CDP/DAC to integrated amp. Unshielded DCA interconnects work beautifully in my AV system between my OPPO digital source to my Leben CS-600 integrated amplifier.

            In fact the DCA20GA interconnects sound much better without shielding, and I only recommend shielding if you can’t use an unshielded IC (i.e. SUT to preamp connection where hum can be an issue).

            The signal coming from the phono cartridge is small for sure, but the main issue with connecting the SUT’s to preamp is not so much the noise as the grounding. Without the shielding connected to ground the hum can be problematic.

            I think you’ll love the DCA12GA as speaker cables, and I certainly have been enjoying that combination myself!

            Kind regards,


  9. FYI,

    Here is the eBay cable I referred to. I said 12 ga but it’s really 10ga and I’m using a double run. It’s cheap enough if anyone wants to mess around with it.



  10. Hey Jeff,

    Any decision as which one do you prefer, 12 or 16? Thanks.

    • Hi Cegu,

      I like the DCA12GA as speaker cables on my Westminster’s the best, but I prefer the DCA20GA and DCA16GA as interconnects over the DCA12GA.

      I really like what I’m hearing from the DCA16GA as speaker cables on my Altec A7’s and Harbeth Super HL5’s.

      I suspect what will work best for you will depend on your speakers, the rest of your equipment, and your personal tastes. The DCA12GA is warmer and richer sounding, the DCA16GA is more vibrant in the midrange and more extended sounding in the high-frequencies.

      I’ve started a survey article for Positive Feedback that will cover all of the Duelund DCA family of tinned-copper cables, and I should have that done over the next 3-4 weeks.



  11. Dear Jeff,

    Love the stories about the DCA’s. After finding out about your blog I immediately ordered the 16 of which I made interconnects. (Live in Europe so these are the only ones available) The 16 IC’s are as transparent, agile and easy as my current IC’s, the AudioQuest Wel. However they add your described emotion to it, much more real, beautiful, organic and involving and they are only playing for 3 days! You can image that I am a bit stunned by these results. The price difference is huge.

    Via Parts Connexion I ordered the 12 for the loudspeaker and the 20 to give it a try as IC. I need 2 times 9 meter for the loudspeaker (89dB) so Chris Johnson’s advice was to go for the 12 single run. Anxiously waiting to get them in.

    So far for my experiences but as you are doing a survey article for Positive Feedback I do have a few suggestions. These are based on the questions I had working with the cables and the available information and reviews.

    – Please incorporate the length of the cables. 3, 5 and 10 meters would be nice
    – Use of low power tube versus heavy solid sate amplifiers
    – Low vs high sensitive speakers
    – Number of twists for IC as well as speaker cable. In my setup (Naim and Magico’s) the IC’s perform better with 5 twists per meter than 20 per meter.

    Good luck with the write up and keep us posted.


    • Hi Eric,

      Thanks for the report on the DCA16GA interconnects, that’s a great result!

      I’m using the single run of DCA12GA now for speaker cables, and I’m really loving it.

      In fact the combination of the various gauges of Duelund cables I have in my system are sounding so good I’m afraid to change anything lest I lose the magic!

      I’m not going to be able to go into that level of detail for the Positive Feedback article on the Duelund cables, as there’s truly unlimited variations on a theme that one can do with them, and I just don’t have that much time to devote to cable experiments.

      It’s definitely fun working with the Duelund cables, but at some point I’ve got to catch up on the other gear in the review queue for the kind folks who’ve been patiently waiting for their articles.

      What I do hope to accomplish is to point people in the right direction, and give them enough information about the various gauges performance characteristics that they can experiment successfully on their own.

      As I’m finding out, part of the magic of the Duelund cables is being able to mix and match them at various system positions to achieve the sort of voicing that matches ones system and tastes, which will be unique for each person.

      Keep you’re eyes on Jeff’s Place, as I suspect we’ll hear more from Frederik as he comes up with more great ideas!

      All the best,


  12. Jeff,

    Was the DCA12GA hard to get on the vintage screws? Thats what I’d have as well. I was wondering if you could do the old studio wrap around trick? Or no go? Thinking hard on a pair as the more I listen the more I think my setup would benefit in balance in this area with the 12GA.



    • Hi Bill,

      It goes on the screws on my vintage MC30’s easily, but it’s too big to use in studio-wrap fashion.

      I’m going to give my second set of DCA12GA speaker cables a go on the FryBaby2 to hear what happens, and will report back on the results!

      With the small binding post adapters that come with the FB2, there really isn’t room to get the DCA12GA in there, so I clipped alligator leads to the binding posts on the FB2, and then to the DCA12GA. It works great that way!



      • Ah! I had an idea alligators would be needed. Now I need to get some. Thanks for reporting back. Waiting on some 12ga now. Anxious to hear them.

  13. Jeff, thank you for all your reports and time into this!

    just wondering on latest findings on 12 ga cable as i will receive frybaby this weekend.

    How much time should i give in frybaby to 12GA speaker cable and how to do it? just put one end in with adapter and do 12 hours?
    interconnects- do just 12 hours to start in voltage? both ends go to the double female RCA adapter? how much could be too much? if i give say 36 hours and do not like result, is there a way back to tune for my taste? is the frybaby treatment once in a lifetime or maintenance for the cable say yearly would be in order?

    DCA 12ga for speaker- is tinning the ends with the kester solder a good idea?

    Thank you!

    • Hi Jeffrey,

      I recommend you start with 12 hours of voltage-only conditioning on the DCA12GA, give it a listen for a few days, and add more voltage-only conditioning in 12 hour increments if you want to increase the warmth further.

      The way to do it is to put on the speaker cable adapters on the FB2, then attach the DCA12GA you cut to length for speaker cables to each of the binding posts. The DCA12GA is a little big to go on the small binding posts included with the FB2, so I used one end of alligator leads to connect to the binding posts, and the other end of the alligator lead to the DCA12GA.

      Take a look at the diagram in FB2 manual: Voltage-only conditioning is open ended, so one end of the cable is connected to the FB2, and the other end is connected to nothing.

      If you read my Positive Feedback article there it describes the process for dialing-in the sonics & musicality you want to acheive for the DCA.

      I use unterminated ends on DCA12GA as speaker cables for the best performance. No need to tin the ends, they’re already tinned.

      Have fun!



  14. What I did with the Frybaby and the 12GA because I didn’t have alligator clips. The hole on the Frybaby adaptor is smaller I took the wire split it in half, and twisted it and feed ( one of the split sides) through the hole. I only did one end as the the entire spool of wire wasn’t cut up yet. Let burn in voltage mode for 48 hours. I normally would recommend start at the 12 hour mark to see where you want it. As my wire wasn’t cut up I figured I would just give it two days from the get so I don’t have to go through any more work for awhile. It was a very rich tone the wire seems to be setting in a little more now that I got over a hundred hours on it. Its rich more laid back highs if your speakers are top heavy this is good especially at louder volumes. As for tinning the wire is already tinned not sure if your wanting to put on spades, or something. I would go bare wire if possible better sound quality might not look as fancy, but sounds more fancy. Hope that helped you out some Jeffrey. I was just looking and seen your post thought I might comment on what i’ve recently done.

  15. Thanks Bill for your reply!

  16. I bought a FryBaby and have been cooking my Duelund IC’s over the last week. I am very happy with the results with cables that already sounded good before I even started.

    I would like to give my Duelund 16ga speaker wires a turn now but am a little confused about how to hook them up. Do I hook up each individual wire of the pair to the positive terminal? Hooking one wire of the pair to each +/- terminal with ends unconnected does not make much sense to me.

    For that matter how does voltage conditioning of the IC’s work on the ground wire when the ends are left unconnected? It would seem to never see any voltage.


    • Hi Paul,

      For the speaker cables attach the binding posts to the FryBaby2. For voltage only conditioning just hook up each individual wire to the binding posts just like you would to your speakers, and leave the other ends unconnected.

      It is my understanding the voltage-only conditioning is for the dielectric, and according the the user manual, “In voltage mode the cable dielectric is excited by electric fields. Leave the far end of the cable open-circuited (see diagrams in following section).”

      To condition the conductors you would use current mode, “In current mode, the cable is short circuited, and conductors are exercised via magnetic fields. Short-circuit the far end of the cable or form a loop by returning the cable to the other FryBaby2 output. Current mode is not applicable when using the FryBaby2 to burn in amplification.”

      I hope that helps.

      Kind regards,


  17. Thanks Jeff. I will give it a try!

    My confusion was trying to understand how connecting a wire to the black(0 volt) pole will result in conditioning. My tendency would have been to tie the two wires together at one end but only connect one of the other ends to the red(+) binding post of the FB2. I forgot that the signal is AC so both poles are energized. I guess that either way would then work?

    BTW. Have you tried current mode yet on either your IC’s or cables?

    Much thanks again for bringing such satisfying and inexpensive improvements to my system!

    • Hi Paul,

      I haven’t been using current mode with the FryBaby2. My Audiodharma Cable Cooker conditions in current mode, and I haven’t found the results to be as predictable as I like with the Duelund DCA, so I haven’t been using the FB2 that way.

      Kind regards,


  18. All,

    I feel 14GA should be ideal gauge when comes the Duelund tin copper for speaker cable when driven by tube amps

  19. Jeff,

    What about running a biwire with 12ga to the bass and 16ga to the kids and highs if the speaker accepts biwiring?

    • Hi George,

      Sure, give it a try. There’s no magic formula, you’ll just need to experiment a bit to find what you like best.

      For example, at the moment I using DCA12GA as speaker cables, and in my Duelund CAST crossovers I’m using DCA16GA for the LF section of the crossover, and DCA20GA as the HF section of the crossover, which gives me very balanced performance.

      If you start with DCA20GA on the HF, DCA16GA on the mid’s, and DCA12GA on the LF’s, that would provide a great basis to experiment from.

      Let me know how it works out!

      Kind regards,


  20. Will do. I’m running Sonus Faber Il Cremonese mains – but there’s only 2 posts, a low and a mid/high. I’ll start with the 12ga on the lows and 16ga on the mid/highs. I’m running off of a Pass Labs 350.8, so there’s lots of power. I’m still waiting for my Don Sachs preamp which should tie everything together nicely.

  21. Hi Jeff. First off, thanks for doing all of this, it is appreciated!! I’ve got a high level question for you regarding the DCA wire. If I was only going to do one test upgrade for now, would I be better off with speaker wire (12 or 16) or my balanced interconnects at 16 or 20?)

    • Hi John,

      It’s a bit of an individual choice based on a particular system and listener’s tastes, but I’ve settled into using DCA12GA speaker cables and DCA20GA interconnects in my Westminster Royal’s & vintage McIntosh based system, and I like what I’m hearing a lot.

      I hope that is of some help!

      Kind regards,


      • Thanks Jeff. Sorry, I realize now I wasn’t clear with my question. If I’m only going to switch to DCA’s on one set of wires for now, the balanced interconnects or the speaker wires, which would you recommend I start with?


  22. Hi John,

    I see. Well, though I would recommend you try the DCA as set of speaker cables and interconnects to get a better idea of what they’re about, I suppose that if you have to start with only one, I’d go with a set of the DCA20GA interconnects. Then add the DC12GA later if you like what you hear.



  23. Hi Jeff:-)

    Just curious if you have an opinion on Duelund cables vs.Sablon Panatela. I just read a very nice review from you on the Panatelas! Both speaker and IC´s are of interest 🙂

    • Hi Peter,

      Both the Duelund and Sablon are excellent cables. Note that the current Panatela’s are completely different than the ones I reviewed in that they use stranded copper conductors rather than silver, which I haven’t heard.

      Actually, I haven’t directly compared my original Panatela’s to the Duelund DCA12GA or DCA20GA as speaker cables or interconnects, respectively, as the the progression in my WRSE based system has been from the Panatela to the WE16GA / Belden 8402 (speaker cables / interconnects) to the Duelund DCA12GA / DCA20GA (speaker cables / interconnects).

      Your best bet for detailed impressions are to read about the original (silver) Panatela’s and Duelund’s in their respective reviews out on Positive Feedback, but having said that I can offer you some very general impressions on the Panatela (silver) I have compared to tinned-copper conductors generally.

      To generalize, my impression of the overarching signature of the silver Panatela’s voicing is a smooth, dimensional, and nuanced presentation.

      For tinned-copper, the overarching signature is a vivid and vibrant presentation that emphasizes the timbral textures, tonal color, and beat, tempo, melody, etc., of the music. There’s a fair amount of variation in that tinned-copper generalization depending on what exact Duelund tinned-copper cables you choose, which you can read about in detail in their Positive Feedback review.

      The cost is dramatically different, however, as the Sablon are expensive custom cables and the Duelund are inexpensive DIY cables in comparison.

      I hope that is of some help.

      Kind regards,


      • Thanx for your answer Jeff! I have a new pair of DIY speakers with external filters. We used Duelund as internal cabling in both the filters and inside cabinets. However, between filters and cabinets is so far only “standard” studio/PA coppercable. 1 to the tweeter and another to the woofer(speakon contacts on both sides). Wonder if it´s worth while changing to Duelund..

        • Hi Peter,

          Definitely give the Duelund a try between the filters and cabinets! I recommend the DCA20GA for the high-frequencies and the DCA12GA for low frequencies. Ditto for interconnects & speaker cables.

          Let me know how it works out!

          Kind regards,


  24. One single strand of each only or several twinned? Looks like you laborated with them as singles. Usually speakercables consists of more strands than the IC´s.

    • Hi Peter,

      The DCA tinned-copper cables are already multi-stranded cables, so you don’t need to do anything else with them in that regard.

      As far as twisting individual cables together in interconnects, for example, I’ve abandoned twisting the conductors, as I think the Duelund DCA20GA sounds better if you leave them as straight runs, or as I say around here, “Straight runs make for more fun!”. (attempt at humor)

      To start with I would only use a single run of DCA20GA to each of the high-frequency driver connections, and a single run of DCA12GA to each of the low-frequency driver connections.

      That’s what I like best as I think it sounds more “real” and natural. But everyone’s equipment and taste needs are a little different, so experiment a little until you find what your “best” is.

      I think it would help you in your project if you went and read my review of the Duelund tinned-copper cables HERE. It’ll give you some ideas.

      Have fun with it!

      Kind regards,


  25. Thank´s a lot Jeff ! 🙂 I think I will start with a pair of IC´s from DCA 16AG with Duelund RCA-plugs. Nick at Hificollective have those in store.

    Will let you know how I like them!
    Tried the Belden 8402 IC´s and liked the tone colour and musicality. Not as dynamic and firm in the bass as my regular MIT´s though.

 Leave a Reply

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>



%d bloggers like this: