Mar 262017

Duelund DCA20GA in the WRSE crossover’s high-frequency circuit.

Yesterday after I rewired the high-frequency circuits of my Westminster’s Duelund CAST crossovers with the Duelund DCA20GA tinned-copper tone wire, I was so excited by the results that I decided I wanted to rewire the low-frequency circuits too.

Duelund DCA16GA in the WRSE’s crossover’s low-frequency circuit.

It was spur of the moment decision to rewire my crossovers, so I didn’t precondition any of the wire on my Audiodharma Cable Cooker, so the Duelund DCA20GA and DCA16GA was “cold off the roll” so to speak.

Duelund DCA20GA for the high-frequencies, and Duelund DCA16GA for the low-frequencies.

For the low-frequency circuit I chose the Duelund DCA16GA tinned-copper wire, which is also what I am using for speaker cables for the low-frequencies.

I removed the Western Electric WE16GA tinned-copper wire from the crossovers and then replaced it with the Duelund DCA16GA tinned-copper wire.

A bi-wire set of Duelund speaker cables with DCA20GA for the high-frequencies and DCA16GA for the low-frequencies.

At the moment I’m experimenting with a set of bi-wire Duelund DCA speaker cables with DCA20GA for the high-frequencies and DCA16GA for the low-frequencies (above).

So that gives me continuous runs of DCA20GA from my vintage McIntosh MC30 monaural amplifiers to the high-frequency connections of the crossovers, and through the high-frequency circuits of the crossovers.

It’s the same thing for the low frequencies, but with DCA16GA.

The red wires you see in the photo above are the Western Electric WE16GA ground wires that are connected internally to the Westminster’s dual concentric drivers’ ground connections, and which exit out of the Westminster’s cabinets to connect to the ground connections on my MC30 monaural amplifiers.

Duelund DCA16GA tinned-copper wire in the low-frequency circuits of the Westminster’s crossovers.

In the photo above you can see the Duelund DCA16GA wire used for the low-frequency speaker cables connecting at the right side of the external crossover (the upper binding posts), and the DCA16GA going through the low-frequency circuit and connecting to the binding posts where the internal wiring of the Westminster’s connects to the external crossovers.

The red wiring you see coming out of the Westminster’s cabinet into the left side of the crossover is the Western Electric WE16GA that I wired my Westminster’s internally with.

DCA20GA on the left binding posts, DCA16GA on the right binding posts.

You can probably guess where this is going. The next step will be to remove the Western Electric wire from my Westminster’s and rewire them with the Duelund DCA wire.

That’s a big job though, so that won’t happen right away.

The Alternate Blues

Yesterday after I wired up the high-frequency crossovers with the DCA20GA I put on a number of records to give the result a listen. A really nice improvement! One of those albums was “The Alternate Blues” (above).

Then after I wired up the low-frequency circuits with DCA16GA I gave it another listen.

It’s amazing what just changing out a few short lengths of Western Electric WE16GA wire in the low-frequency crossovers with the Duelund DCA16GA did for the system’s overall sound and musicality.

Duelund DCA16GA in the low-frequency circuit of the Westminster’s crossover.

I let the system play NPR overnight to get a little more time on the new DCA wire in the crossovers.

Today I’ll be listening on and off to the system and will try to report back with some preliminary impressions a little later.

As always, thanks for stopping by!

 Posted by at 9:41 am

  7 Responses to “A Complete Duelund DCA Rewire of the Westminster Royal SE’s Crossovers!”

  1. That sounds like an awesome wiring project Jeff. And not a bad idea to do the internal wiring at another time to gauge how much incremental change there is in doing that by itself. The stock wiring in my Altecs was 20 so I’m less interested in the gauge split. The 16 seems ideal for the LF IMO. Other than: 1) swapping out the plastic wire on the crossover; and 2) removing it completely from the speaker itself the main question I’d have at this point if bi-wiring from the amp offers any benefits versus running by itself. Well either way the black cloth insulator looks a lot better than the red IMO. Thanks for taking one for the team on this. It’s tough work but someone has to do it. 🙂

    • Howdy Josh,

      I may try the DCA20GA for the low-frequencies too, just to hear what happens. I’ll probably let things run in for some weeks, and then give it a try.

      The bi-wiring isn’t as convenient for hooking up to my vintage MC30 amps, that’s for sure. A single skinny wire is definitely my friend for the MC30’s screw terminals!

      When I’m using different wire types in the low & frequency circuits of the crossovers, the bi-wiring is handy for dialing in the voicing.

      I think either single-wire or bi-wire can provide excellent results, it just depends on the application for which one ends up being preferable.

      I’ll end up going with whatever sounds the best in the particular circuit, etc., so I’ve got quite a few more wire adventures before I figure that out! (A good thing!)

      Kind regards,


  2. Sheesh!!!

    Guess I’ll have to rewire my Duelund outboard crossover – changing from WE to Duelund.

    Might as well replace the WE leads from the crossover straight into the Tannoy dual concentric drivers as well…

    Umm, whatever happened to “Don’t fix it if it ain’t broke? 🙂

    • Howdy Jim!

      I’m going to try things one step at a time and see what happens. I can definitely recommend DCA20GA for the high-frequency circuit of the crossover, it really is nice, in the same way that the DCA20GA interconnects are nice!

      I like the DCA16GA in the low-frequency circuit as well, but just for kicks I may try wiring it with the DCA20GA too just to hear what happens.

      Then the internal wiring of the Westminster is next!

      “Don’t fix it if it ain’t broke!” sounds like a great idea, but I usually end up taking things that work just fine and fixing them until I break them! 😉

      Cheers! 🙂


    • In regard to, “Umm, whatever happened to “Don’t fix it if it ain’t broke? ” Come on Jim, what fun would that be?

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